Kyle's '77 Celica

Brothers muffler shop is just over the tracks from my home.  We needed a nearby shop, because our plan was to drive header-only to get the rest of the exhaust connected.  They did it while we waited and the price was right! Now that we had an exhaust system, we went for a short drive to warm the engine so we could advance the timing to 12 degrees BTDC, and adjust the idle mixture screws.  We also rechecked the fuel pressure, warm, and it had dropped to around 2 psi.  The regulator adjustment worked much better, with a warm engine.  We set it to around 2.6 psi. Since we had a little extra time, we checked the running voltage at the battery and it was approaching 16 volts while revving.  I had purchased a new voltage regulator, from Rockauto.com, for about ten bucks.  We installed that, and it kept the voltage below 15 when revving. New voltage regulator 

I opted for the better fuel pressure regulator that LC offers.  Since I didn't upgrade the Guage to an oil filled unit, so it has to be removed after use. I found a couple of threaded holes on the corner of the engine bay, which worked perfectly to mount the regulator.  The holes had painted threads, so apparently they were unused from the factory.

Today we installed the Weber 38 that Redline sent as a replacement for the defective 32/36.  Both Redline and LC Engineering were extremely helpful with install and tuning questions.  Unfortunately, the adapter plates had an issue which caused the recess for linkage clearance to be oriented wrong. This is the proper orientation of the plates (notice, the center bolt holes don't line up) Grinding to make room for the linkage. Our linkage extension tube Our linkage adapter 

The LC Engineering tech suggested that we remove the carburetor, to check that the throttle butterflies were centered.  We found that the secondary was not.  We also noticed a small casting defect on the throttle body.  Further inspection found that the hole went all of the way through, so we had to return the carburetor.  I called LC and they shipped a replacement that day.  I also emailed Weber.  Weber wanted the defective carburetor, so they offered an upgrade to a 38.  We had that in our hands the next day! Shining a flashlight from in the bore

Today, Kyle and I installed the Weber Carburetor that we purchased from LC Engineering.  We also removed and plugged various obsolete vacuum ports and a few unused water temperature sensor ports. The linkage adapter that was supplied with the kit was too flimsy, in our opinion.  The weber carburetor linkage is about an inch farther away from the firewall, but the stock linkage was able to hinge enough to connect to it.  That hinging seemed to be causing a little binding, so we figured out a way to extend it (not pictured here, should be posted soon).  We decided to reuse the stock linkage connector, which was not keyed.  Since it needed to be keyed to prevent slippage, we cut the keyed section out of the Weber linkage and tack welded it on over the existing hole. The new carburetor has issues with its linkages sticking (not returning completely to the stops).  I plan to call LC tomorrow morning to find out how we can remedy that.

When we purchased the car, the previous owner gave us a header that he had planned to install.  We looked up the model number (Pace-Setter 70-1188) and found out that it was intended for a mid 80's 22re powered pickup.  That's when we decided to use the stock manifold.  We changed our mind and purchased a stainless steel header, cheap on ebay, that was supposed to fit our '07 Celica.   Today we found out that it would not clear the steering box on one side and flywheel housing on the other. When we tried the Pace-Setter, it almost dropped right in (but the stock down pipe heat shield was just touching which kept the head flange from fitting over all studs).  Removing one (top) and loosening the other two heat shield bolts was enough to free it up.

Kyle and I decided to make some room in the engine bay. (before) The air pump mount is sandwiched under the engine mount, so it stays until we find the right spacer We removed the hood and a few other things, to get the A/C condenser out Toyoda

When we purchased the car, it had no working turn signals.  We checked for a blown fuse, bad lamps etc and then drove home from Seattle without turn signals. I found a schematic online and used it to isolate the problem down to the flasher / turn signal relay, or a wiring problem after it in the circuit. The relay had a very questionable repair at some point, because the output connection was a very thin piece of steel or tin.  After opening it up, I found the repair was not soldered -- only glued! We will see how long my repair lasts...

I knew there were a few exhaust manifold mounting studs missing, most likely with stripped threads on the aluminum head.  I replaced all of the studs except one, and had to repair three holes with M10 x 1.25 heli-coils.  With the new gaskets and a good mount, the exhaust manifold was no longer leaking at the head.  Unfortunately, there was another leak at one of the air pipe flanges.  In order to replace that gasket (which was new) or to add another for more thickness, we would have to remove the manifold again. 4 out of 7 studs = leak I brought the manifold to a local auto parts store with a machine shop, for resurfacing The center stud was a little questionable, so we added a jam nut for now